The Heads are Watching You in Oviedo

Detail of Casa Ciutat


    Okay.  Now it is official. They are everywhere and they are looking at you.   In my last blog entry on architectural corbels in Oviedo, I remarked that, wandering around this magical little city, I often felt that I was being watched; in that blog I noted that I realized that this feeling was based in reality--that in fact there were architectural faces sculpted in stone looking down at me as I walked around.

    (While I reacted to this realization with a sort of creepy big-brother-is-watching-you feeling, I should note that my wife had a different reaction, namely that these watching heads were benign guardians making sure that you were safe and comfortable under their embracing countenances.)

    It is hard to miss the heads staring down at you from a building like the neobaroque/modernista Casa Ciutat, completed in 1917 (above).  But once one is aware of them, these staring figures pop up on almost every street.

   So here is what I saw today on March 3rd, as we took advantage of a 15c warm sunny day to walk around town.  In just the few blocks between the Plaza Porlier and the Fontan market you are being watched by:

Palacio de los Marqueses de Camposagrado (18th century)

Plaza Porlier

Plaza Porlier

Calle Mendizábat

Calle Mendizábat

Calle Mendizábat

Antiguo Banco de Asturias

Calle San Francisco

Calle San Francisco

Calle Fruella

Calle Fruella

Palacio Regional

Palacio Regional

Calle Suárez de la Riva

Calle Suárez de la Riva

Calle Suárez de la Riva

Calle Suárez de la Riva


     It was such a warm pleasant day, and it was so much fun to discover all of these wonderful images, that by the end of our walk, I was almost coming around to accept my wife's benign guardian interpretation.  I continued to harbor that feeling when after a wonderful outdoor meal (3pm!) we turned back towards our apartment at the edge of the caso antiguo.  Just down the street from our place, a recently restored house revealed some more faces:

Calle Oscura

Calle Oscura

     But, before I completely resign my Big Brother interpretation in favor of welcoming apotrophaism, I should note that the faces closest to my home have a decidedly creepy vibe to them!


Calle Oscura

Paper graffiti on edge of Palacio Inclán, Calle Carpio




 

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